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The King's Brew: Just a Teahouse Away
In 2737 BCE Emperor Shen Nong allegedly
took the first sip of tea after a few leaves landed
in his small cauldron of boiling water. Intrigued by
the aroma, the curious emperor bravely sampled the brew.
Thus a new beverage was born, one surpassed only by
water as the most popular beverage in the world.
Nearly 6,000 years later Camellia
sinensis came to me as a boy. Snugly packed in little
bags inside the Lipton box, I pegged tea as the choice
of my aunts. What surfaced decades later was the old
world of tea. There were the black teas, but even more
enticing were the oolongs and greens.
The curing of the leaves differentiates
the three teas. Black tea undergoes hours of oxidation
accelerated by heat and humidity. Oolong is partially
fermented and much of this tea comes from Taiwan. Green
tea is steamed and/or oxidized only very shortly or
not at all. Though all the teas have profound health
benefits, green is the most beneficial.
Latitude, longitude, and elevation
of where the plant was grown are key to a fine tea,
as is the harvest time and stage of growth. The numbers
of varieties surpasses that of wine. Also, unlike wine,
tea - especially green - has a short life span and must
be consumed quickly or it loses color, aroma and flavor.
It is no secret that one reason for
tea’s popularity is its ability to conquer fatigue.
As a stimulant, the caffeine in tea improves concentration
and alertness, accelerating nerve impulses to the brain.
Of course caffeine tolerance varies greatly among individuals.
Particularly concerning is research indicating a possible
interference of fetal development with caffeine consumption.
As such, limiting caffeine in pregnancy is paramount.
Caffeine content for tea per 5 oz.
is 25-110 mg for black, 12-55 mg for oolong, and 8-36
mg for green. Higher temperatures of the water yields
more caffeine, as does ground tea, which is in tea bags.
Whole leaves contain less, are fresher and have superior
flavor. Drip coffee is estimated at 60-180 mg, decaf
coffee at 2-13mg, while a 12-oz. cola has 46 mg.
Quality oolong or green tea can be
infused several times with flavor peaking sometime beyond
the first infusion. In fact the first infusion is said
to be the Prince’s Brew while the second is considered
the King’s Brew. In China I drank tea lasting
up to 10 infusions.
When first brewing green or oolong,
a sense of experimentation is important. Handling the
tea with care is the first crucial step. This includes
using bottled or filtered water - but not distilled.
My tea is steeped in a 16-oz. Chinese Yixing clay teapot.
For this I use 2-4 teaspoons of tea depending on type
and quality. Water temperature is also important. Gauging
the temperature by the bubble size is a skill that further
develops a tea connoisseur.
Turbulent boiling water is only for
the teas known as pu-erh. Bubbles the size of pearls
(195-200°F) are suitable for blacks and oolongs
while greens should receive water boiled only to the
size of small fish eyes (160-170°F). An inexpensive
thermometer can be used to insert into the kettle. You
will soon base the temperature on your kettle’s
sound.
Most greens should steep for just
30-60 seconds then poured into a holding flask to be
served as needed. Oolongs are often steeped for 2-5
minutes, then strained into a flask. If the tea is bitter,
it steeped too long; no flavor, too short. Subsequent
infusions will need to steep longer. You can reduce
some of the caffeine by doing a very quick steeping.
Just pour the hot water over the leaves and strain immediately.
Your ability to play with these factors will reward
you with the perfect cup.
Patience clearly has its benefits
with tea preparation.
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